F.A.Q.'s
Windows, Vents & Doors
Windows
Q: Who made the windows on Airstreams, and how did they vary?
A: The windows were made by Hehr International from the
start through 1965, and then Corning/Phillips made the operable windows
from 1966 on (vintage era).
Years 1947 to 1951 used an unmarked style with the seal on the openable Window section. The window had a large formed drip-cap over the window.
Years 1952 through 1958 used a model called "Standard" with the seal on the frame and stamped aluminum frames. They too had the large drip cap over the window. Crank openers replaced lever type in 1955.
1959 to 1960 were an intermediate style between the Standard and the below mentioned Hallmark. The window was called the Hehr "Clear-View". The frame and glass were the new extrusion frames, but the drip cap was the older large style formed cap.
1961 through 1965 used HallMark 12. The window part number begins with a C 1200. The drip cap is recognizable as being a smaller L shaped extrusion. Openers (operators) varied, with at least 3 different styles being used.
The 1966 to 1968 Corning/Phillips windows reflected the housing style of the time, and were frameless pieces of heat treated curved Corning glass with rounded corners, with hardware attached directly to the windows. They closed against a 360 deg seal and didn't have drip caps.
1969-on saw the return of aluminum framed windows using conventional Corning glass, but with radiused corners.
Q: I have a 1962 trailer and the gray strips which hold the window
glass in place are falling out. Where can I get new ones?
A: The strip you are referring to are the glass retainer
strips or "glazing", and there were numerous styles over the
years. Replacement material are available from suppliers for the 1952-1958
and 1962 to 1965 windows. A few of the independent informational Airstream
websites keep commercial supplier listings. The material used on 1966
to 1996 windows is still available from Airstream dealers.
Q: The openers on my 1960 trailer wont open the window - the handle just
spins. What is wrong, and what can I do?
A: Crank openers (operators) first appeared in 1955,
and the Hehr style of opener lasted until 1965. It was patterned after
casement window openers, but had a weak link. The gears were cast from
soft pot metal, and by turning the wrong way with the window closed, or
opened against a resistance, are easy to strip the teeth off the gears.
Some small companies are looking into rebuilding them, so keep your old
ones. In the mean time, replacement is the only option, and generic replacements
are available from RV dealers/suppliers and manufacturers such as BlaineWindow.com.
Q: The openers on our 1961 trailer are different than those on
our 1960 trailer. What gives??
A: Prior to 1955, the openers where simple notched levers.
Then things got messy. Hehr operators used varied by year, model and factory.
1955 to 1958 used a large cast opener with a single handle crank. 1959
to 1965 saw many styles of openers with small twist cranks, a complex
over the window dual drive mechanism, and ultimately, a smaller single
handle crank. Some of the 1959 to 1964 openers are still made by Hehr
and Blaine, and the older large Hehr openers can be replaced with newer
generic openers by use of an adapter plate that compensates for the difference
in hole spacing. From 1966 to 1968 they were a ratchet bar type of mechanism.
These are still available from Airstream dealers, as are the newer openers.
Q: A window on my late 1960's trailer has broken, where can I get a replacement?
A: From 1966 to 1968, the windows were made from Corning
Glass (frameless). They are no longer available. Solution is to have one
made from Acrylite AR-2 (www.cyro.com). Acrylite is flexible that it will
bend to contour to the curved sides of Airstreams, and will take a set
and hold that contour after being latched in place in the sun. A material
is applied to the sheets that result in the window being able to be scrubbed
with steel wool and not be scratched. It's the same chemical that is used
on plastic eyeglass lenses. The product is a satisfactory substitute for
the original glass windows and is available at plastics retailers such
as Tap Plastics (www.tapplastics.com). It can be drilled and shaped to
match the old Corning windows exactly, and is available with UV inhibitors
to protect interiors:
To replace, access the window hinge from the inside of your coach. You
will find some sheet metal screws. Remove those screws and pry open the
hinge.
Q: I'm missing a whole window, where can I get a replacement?
A: Unless you can find an exact era and almost the exact
model donor, your only course is to have a welding or machine shop fabricate
one by building up an equivalent using a lay-up of stock aluminum extrusion
pieces per your measurements and using one of your other windows as an
example. The butyl bedding tape is available from RV dealers, the single-strength
glass from a glass shop, and the glass retainer as noted above. Extrusion
for 1969 and later are still available from Airstream dealers.
Q: The aluminum drip caps over the windows on my '50's trailer
are all dented up. What can I do?
A: Replacement drip caps still made, and are available
in all the sizes Airstream used from RV Dealers. They come in 1 inch increments
and are measured from the outside of the flange.
Q: My ‘70’s Airstream has small oval windows above
and below the regular windows. They appear to be all foggy. What can be
done?
A: These are called "VistaView" window. The
vintage VistaView windows were a sealed double pane. The exterior piece
of glass had a reflective film applied to its inside surface for privacy
and solar/UV reflectivity.
These windows had a tendency to become "un-sealed", allowing
moisture to condense between the two panes of glass. This, in turn, causes
the reflective film to fog and deteriorate, and sometimes actually detach
from the glass.
There three types of VistaView windows, each with their own method of
repair (courtesy of Can-Am-RV).
These repairs can be accomplished without removing the exterior aluminum
frame from the trailer, thereby not disturbing the original caulking where
the frame fastens to the trailer shell.
Can-Am has the gasket material in two sizes to fill the space in the frame
when the inner glass is removed. This material costs $3.00 Canadian or
$2.00 U.S. per foot. (parts@can- am-rv.com or 800 709 2931). You need
the smaller size for snap ring windows and the larger for windows without
the snap ring on the inside.
1972 Models:
The first year Double Pane VistaView Windows were available was 1972 and these trailers actually had a plastic inner pane with its own frame. So on a ‘72 you can remove the inner VistaView pane and just clean off the damaged tint on the inside of the outer pane.
Snap ring windows - 1973 & 1974 a few early 1975 Models:
These windows have an aluminum snap ring on the inside which is fairly easy to remove. Once it is out you can pry out the plastic inner pane and start cleaning out the caulking around the edges eventually you will be able to push the outer pane through to the inside (from the outside of the trailer) and remove it completely.
Clean the inside of the frame out completely and wipe it with a solvent so that it is totally clean, make certain that the solvent does not run down the outside of the unit and damage the clear coat. Next clean the glass off completely (you can remove the remains of the old tint with a razor blade) and wipe it off with a solvent such as lacquer thinner as well.
Coat all of the inside surfaces of the window frame with about a 1/8" thick layer of silver silicone sealant. Take the clean glass and push it into the silicone and then push in the rubber gasket (smaller size). That will take up the extra space in the frame. Then all that is necessary is to clean off the excess silicone on the inside and out and let the remainder harden. The trailer should be kept dry for 6 hours and not be towed for 48 hours.
When it is done with the rubber gasket in place it looks professional, like the factory made it that way.
Non Snap Ring Windows (Glass Inner Pane) - 1975-1984 Models
These windows are the most difficult to do. The inner pane is glass set in the gooiest caulking you have ever seen. First you need to break the inner pane with a hammer and a screw driver near the edge, don't go through and break the outer pane. The larger chunks of glass in the middle will drop out easily but the small shards of glass stuck in the caulking need to be pulled out one at a time with pliers.
NOTE: WEAR SAFETY GLASSES AND GLOVES. It does not happen very often but every once in a while one of the outer safety glasses explodes and it will throw glass 100' if it does.
There is a soft plastic molding in the frame that goes from the outside of the outer pane through to the inside of the frame, you will see a lip of it on between the outer frame and the glass. Cut the lip off of the outside by running a sharp utility knife all around the inside edge of the frame. Then you grab the molding on the inside with pliers and pull it out of the frame with the last of the glass pieces and the gooey caulking.
Unlike the earlier snap ring windows, the outer glass will not come out through the inside frame, so you need to clean the glass and the frame with it still in place in the trailer. Clean the inside of the frame out completely and wipe it with a solvent so that it is totally clean, make certain that the solvent does not run down the outside of the unit and damage the clear coat. Next clean the glass off completely (you can remove the remains of the old tint with a razor blade) and wipe it off with a solvent such as lacquer thinner as well.
Coat all of the inside surfaces of the window frame with about a 1/8" thick layer of silver silicone sealant. Take the clean glass and push it into the silicone and then push in the rubber gasket (larger size) that will take up the extra space in the frame. Then all that is necessary is to clean off the excess silicone on the inside and out and let the remainder harden. The trailer should be kept dry for 6 hours and not be towed for 48 hours. When it is done with the rubber gasket in place it looks professional, like the factory made it that way.
Q: How do I replace the built in screens on the windows of my
1950's trailer? They aren't removable.
A: Remove the pop-riveted window opening trim and the
opener. Remove the old screen and use as a template for the new screen,
allowing 1/2" extra around for the new crimp. Use heavy gauge galvanized
insect screening (http://www.cornerhardware.com is one source). Using
a good quality screening tool at an angle (looks like a pizza cutter),
roll the crimp into the flanges, alternating sides. Fold over any remaining
screen and roll it into place. Trim the corners of extra screen.
Vents and Access Doors
Q: I’m missing an external roof vent cover. Where can I
get a replacement?
A: There were numerous styles used over the years –
all of which are no longer available. The openings measured a standard
14 x 14”, all of which were made by Hehr. The late ‘40’s
“frying pan” version was replaced in the ‘50s with the
2 part backing dish and integral seal, and then again in 1965/1966 with
rounded corner slightly domed “Solardome”, a metal framework
with plastic panels. This later versions can have the plastic repalced
with acrylic and re-riveted. Earlier versions that require replacement
require adaptation of the cyurrently available plastic domed replacement
vent covers, or the installation of a modern “Fanstastic Fan”
conversion.
Q: Are the large domed vent covers available?
A: Up until 1966, the 14" x 26" "Astrodome"
was a large opaque molded dome shaped vent cover with square corners.
These are not available anymore. Inland RV got the mold, but currently
does use it (cost). The original material was opaque fiberglass (since
yellowed) until 1962/1963, when it was changed to white acrylic. C &
G Trailer Service (562)-634-6286) has an after-market fiberglass copy
of the Airstream skylight for about $100. InlandRV has a generic dome.
The 1966 to 1971 trailers use a similar dome that has rounded corners.
The Inland RV dome approximates this one closer, but still may require
work to get it to fit.
Q: The twist type openers on our roof vent wont turn –any
fix?
A: The LeDeux openers are subject to freezing up if not
kept lubricated. Soak the openers in a container or “PB Blaster”
or “Kroil” or “Knocker Loose” until they operate.
Keep these valuable operators working with annual applications of Lithium
grease to the internal risers.
Q: I lost our back Service Panel door from our '60's Airstream
on the freeway. Where can I get another?
A: These are very scarce. I'm surprised no one has started
making them commercially. Right now the only option is to have a sheetmetal
shop make one using their shears and pan brake. It involves covering 5
sides of a 1/2" honeycomb panel with thin aluminum sheet attached
to a doubled over piece of aluminum to form the outside. A new handle
is attached to the outside sheet before joining the two.
Doors
Q: What is a "Suicide Door"?
A: It is the style of entry door where the door hinges
on the left (back) side, allowing the door to open into traffic (suicide
in a car) and the slipstream while traveling. This can result in the door
slamming back into trailer, causing great damage. Airstream issued a Service
Bulletin in the 1960's to install a small dot on the flange of doorknob
equipped doors to prevent false latching. "Lock to the dot"
is a mantra of many an Airstreamer.
The reason for the forward facing door is three-fold. If the door was
to hinge forward, the door would be sitting out exposed, subject to damage
while open, there would be no place to latch it, and it would preclude
the use of awning arms.
Q: I need to replace the worn cylinder on my Bargman “refer door
handle” entry door lock. Any ideas?
A: The cylinder is identical to what was used by Ford
on mid fifties ignition switches, and is known by locksmiths as a "Hurd"
cylinder.
Q: My door is missing the little catch that hold it open. Where
can I get a new one?
A: The Bargman Door catch was used from almost the first
Airstream trailer on. They are still made to this day by Tekonsha, and
are available at RV dealers.
Q: My '70's trailer entry door handle is broken. Are these still
available?"
A: From the late ;1960's on, Airstream used a Bargman
lockset. First the L-100 with round knobs inside & out, followed by
the L-200 with a paddle lever on the inside. The L-200 is still available
and works in both cases, but be aware that some later models require an
extended length bolt version. Also, there may be a need to do some filing
on the bolt to get a good fit in the new lockset. The Bargman bolt casting
is getting old and is not quite as precise as it once was.
Q: I need to replace the weather-stripping on my door. What should
I use?
A: They varied greatly over the years, so we’ll
fill in the information that is available.
1974+ - Airstream Dealers (used until 1993)
1969-1973 – Airstream Dealers (same material as the ’69 to ’93 windows)
1965-1968 – Any _”H x _”W or so black foam rubber weatherstrip will work. The original was a 2 blade folding type, but the “D” shaped automotive seals will work also.
1959-1964 – TBD
1951-1958 - TBD
Q: How do attach the weather-stripping?
A: Use “Super Weatherstrip Adhesive” from
3M. Contact cement and the peel and stick tapes fail quickly.
