F.A.Q.'s
Appliances
Heaters
Q: Are old heaters safe, what should look for, what repairs should I expect
to make?
A: A brand new heater can be just as, if not more dangerous
than an older heater if it is not hooked up or vented properly. That is
one reason to stay with the original installation if at all possible.
An existing heater, even a 50 year old one, is safe if the care and use
is exercised that even a new appliance deserves. A heater uses LP gas
and produces Carbon Monoxide (CO) - two elements that must be treated
with respect. A heater should be inspected carefully and all repairs made
before using it, and then inspected annually. The burner can (combustion
chamber) and flue are most critical, and should be cleaned of debris and
insure any holes or rust-through holes are either welded or a new burner
can fabricated - both of which a good welding shop can accomplish. The
connection to the exhaust vent line should be air-tight and the line unobstructed.
Burning LP gas produces water vapor, which will rust the steel and iron
burners and combustion chambers. Most were designed to rust effectively
without altering performance or safety. A good sandblasting now and then
will help clogged burner rings and make it easier to inspect the chamber.
The burner pilot light operates much like the hot water heater does- see
below for more maintenance tips.
These older units used no electricity, something only the catalytics nowadays
can boast. The older furnaces can also warm up a cold trailer quickly,
something a catalytic can't do - they are good for maintaining temperatures
once achieved - especially at night. And let's face it, the older furnaces
look cool compared to the hidden noisy under counter boxes that pass for
RV heaters today.
You have more replacement options with the newer forced air heaters, as
they are usually generic Suburban and Atwood unit that are hidden in cabinetry
with pretty much standard interfaces.
As with any combustion device, always verify annually that the combustion
chamber and exhaust flues are 100% sealed tight, and always leave a window
slightly open for ventilation when using the heater.
Q: My local RV dealer won’t work on my heater in our 1960’s
trailer. What’s up with that?
A: To find someone other than yourself to repair an older
heater will be rather difficult. Big issue is the liability coverage,
and no parts support from manufacturers because of that.
Most heater units if taken care of are no more dangerous than when they
were new 30-40-50 years ago, but we as a society are. Back then people
still accepted a personal responsibility for their own safety, and took
it upon themselves to check the operation and condition annually, knew
to sleep with a window and vent open, and were just more mechanically
inclined than the general public is nowadays.
Your best bet will be the smaller Mom & Pop dealers as the owner or
a long-time skilled employee will usually be doing the work. Keep trying
until you find such a dealer that will work on it.
Q: Our Suburban forced air furnace no longer will light and run.
What are some of the usual causes?
A: It's usually one of three scenarios, all easy to fix.
First, insects and debris can get into the burner air inlet. Since there
is insufficient airflow, the electronic igniter won't start. Secondly
is a bad sail switch ("air-prover"). This micro-switch activates
by the airflow from the combustion blower and is set to reach a certain
RPM before allowing the gas and ignition to activate. A third problem
is that if you are not on shore power, the battery may be run down and
won't turn the blower fast enough to initiate the sail switch. This can
also apply to the earlier pilot light models. The sail switch closes to
open the main gas valve when the blower causes it to close the circuit
confirming that fresh air is incoming for combustion and exhaust air is
being blown out.
Hot Water Heaters
Q: My hot water heater tank has rusted through. The new 6 gal
heaters available come with an ugly white flimsy door. How do you replace
the HW heater?
A: This is a quite common replacement. The new Atwoods
and Suburbans are smaller than the old Bowens (old Atwood). Remove the
old unit from the inside, it is attached around the lip of the opening
and sometimes with a couple of brackets into the wood floor. Fashion an
adapter plate to fill the gap at the top and sides and to provide attachment
for the old exterior Shroud. Secure this plate to the opening using the
old screw locations along with the new HW heater. A little sealant prior
to assembly will make a weathertight installation. This method will allow
you to keep the old exterior cover with the new unit.
If you have the vintage Bowen heater that has the external shroud for
the hot air exhaust on just one half of the opening, the newer Suburban
models exhaust the hot air on the same side, making reusing the existing
shroud even easier.
Q: A prior owner threw away the original outside cover when they replaced
the Bowen Hot Water Heater and installed a flat panel that looks out of
place. Can I get a replacement cover?
A: The only two sources exist for these. One would be
a wrecked trailer, but they always go first. It is also possible to have
a sheet metal shop make a similar shroud using a picture of one as a guide
using novelty embossed aluminum and perforated aluminum sheet. If you
have a pan brake and shear, you can do it, too. Only thing missing would
be the nameplate and the original style latch - which may be a blessing
on the latter.
Q: I’m worried about hard water sediment plugging up our
HW heater. Any ideas?
A: Atwood, the current manufacturer of the post 1968
Bowen style water heater recommends an annual blowout of the water heater.
Their method involves attaching an air fitting to the city water inlet,
applying clean 40-50 PSI air and blowing the water of the heater. They
say the scavenging action of the air bubbles will clear the calcium buildup.
If you already have a build-up of material, you can use a gallon or two
of white vinegar to loosen the calcium deposits. Put it in, let it soak
overnight, flush it out good. You may have to repeat, depending on how
much is in there.
Air-Conditioners
Q: What Air-Conditioners did Airstream offer as standard options?
A: The Armstrong "Bay Breeze" was used when
they first became available in 1960, and then as long as they were made.
Sounded more like a hurricane than a breeze, but if you compare components
and operation with newer RV AC's the difference was significant. These
units are definitely worth repairing. The Armstrong's used commercial
grade parts. Airstream then had to change to a Coleman Delta TX that had
inside/outside air and did a decent job. When that model was discontinued,
Airstream changed to the Dometic Penguin. Airstream has used the Penguin
on all their trailers ever since.
Q: When were Airstreams first pre-wired for Air-Conditioning at the center
vent opening?
A: According to Airstream records they did not start
pre-wiring for air-conditioning until 1962-1964 (depending on model/plant).
You can tell if there is a spare 20amp breaker in the electrical control
box. In the few years prior that AC was available, wiring was run from
the fuse panel on custom AC installations only.
Q: What about the water condensate air-conditioners produce. Where does
it go?
A: The air-conditioner needs to be installed in a contoured
pan, specific to the brand of air-conditioner – available from Airstream
dealers only. This pan is connected to a drain hose that goes down between
the inner and outer skin and exits the floor and belly pan. This drain
was preinstalled on 1967 and later models, and has to be retrofited on
older trailers. This pan also adapts the AC to the rounded top of the
Airstream.
Q: Are the roofs equiped to support the weight of an air-conditioner?
A: Not all until 1969. Prior to that, some models will
have frame members adjacent to the vent opening, but others require two
fore & aft stringers be placed between frames (“main bows”),
in between the skins.
Refrigerators
Q: How do RV refrigerators work?
A: Simply put, they heat up liquid ammonia, changing
it to a vapor that as it expands absorbs heat. As the vapor condenses
back into a liquid, it releases the heat it absorbed in the tubing inside
your refrigerator to the outside of the refer on the back via the cooling
tubes. This heat is exhausted out your trailer via natural convection,
and is the reason your trailer has a lower and upper vent for the refer
(some early trailers had the lower intake air only come from the interior
cabinets). The heat to initiate the cycle comes from a 110v heater coil
or a small LP gas burner flame.
Q: The refrigerator in my used Airstream doesn't work. The dealer says
it is shot and I need a new one - cost: $900. Is there any way to shortcut
this? Can it be fixed?
A: Older refrigerators are sturdily built using long-life
materials. The newer materials are not as sturdy, such as plastic vs.
metal and electronic circuit boards and controls that will have a limited
life. Plus, they are made with so much newer looking plastic that they
are very noticeable. Most shops will want to replace you refer because
it takes less skill to replace with new than to repair old, plus the chance
of quick success is greater. There are RV appliance shops that will work
on the older units, so check around.
Another option is fixing them yourself. It first takes an understanding
of how they work (see above), and then troubleshoot and restore the unit,
cleaning, disassembling and adjusting per the manual if available. The
most common failure of refrigerators is accumulation of dirt and rust
on the coils inhibiting heat transfer, or the gas burner becoming plugged
with rust from the coils or by spiders, or the thermocouple tubing/fittings
leaking or out of position. The enclosed tube system for the ammonia gas/liquid
is rarely the problem as they almost never leak or plug unless damaged
or mis-operated. On pre 1970's refers, once the tube is compromised, replacement
is almost the only option unless you find another donor unit to swap and
combine parts with.
Q: My refrigerator is missing, so I have no choice other than replace.
Other than the cost of $800-$1200, what problems will I have?
A: The biggest concern is that new refrigerators are
of different sizes than the older units, and cabinets may require substantial
modification. By moving more controls to the front, replacing the steel
box with plastic and foam, and replacing the aluminum frame with plastic,
the sizes are close, but not quite the same. Another thing to watch out
for is that many of the older refrigerators had cutouts in the back that
are not duplicated on modern units.
Q: My gas refrigerator works only on gas but not on electricity.
How come?
A: The cooling circuit of your refrigerator depends on
a small section which must be kept hot in order to heat up the ammonia
in the tubing. It can be heated either by a gas burner, or an electric
resistance heater. The two circuits are usually independent. The electric
heat usually has a heating element and its own thermostatic control. Make
sure the heater element is inserted to its full length in its pocket or
receptacle. If the electric heater is only partly inserted, the heat distribution
will be incorrect. Another possible failure is the heater element has
burned out. You can determine which by using a volt-ohm meter. Modern
heating elements can be adapted to fit in place of inoperative units.
If it is a modern refer, the most likely failure is the controller Circuit
Board. Replacement boards are available from RV Dealers.
Q: My gas refrigerator works on electric power only, not gas.
How come?
A: The cooling circuit of your refrigerator depends on
a small section which must be kept hot in order to heat up the ammonia
in the tubing. It can be heated by a gas flame or by an electric resistance
heater if so equipped. Usually these two systems are completely separate.
It sounds as though service is needed for the gas burner portion. The
usual causes are the burner orifice being plugged or damaged, or the gas
control being plugged or needing adjustment. Plugged burner tips can be
cleaned out with solvent and compressed air, and replacement burner tips
are available from small appliance parts distributors. Make sure the thermocouple
flame sensor is in the flame path per the manual, and that all the fittings
are tight. The thermocouple compresses the air in the tubing as it is
heated, opening a valve in the gas control it connects to. If there is
any air leakage, the valve will not open. Make sure the flame height and
color is adjusted per the manual, and that the vents are free and clear
of blockage. Also, make sure that there is LPG pressure at the control
valve. The VAC Archives have started collecting and posting older fridge
manuals in the Online Library.
Q: I’ve heard you can restore a poor working refrigerator
by “burping it”. Is this true?
A: It is to the extent that if the problem was caused
by running the refer while off level or without adequate cooling air,
resulting in overheating. This will cause an excessive vaporizing of the
ammonia within the boiler. After some hours of this, the liquid mixture
in the boiler is very weak and the circulation of liquid stops. The refrigerator
should be removed after allowing sufficient time to cool down. Turn the
unit upside down several times so that the liquid in the absorber vessel
can be mixed with the liquid in the boiler. This will restore the liquid
balance.
Q: What are replacement cooling packs?
A: Starting in the '70's refers were made with a modular
cooling system that can be replaced external to the refer box. Remanufactured
units are available from:
Midwest Products Inc
1102 Avenue of Industries
Corning, IA 50841-8410
Phone: (641)322-4227
http://www.mwpcool.com/
Q: The door gasket on my refer is falling apart. What can I do?
A: The best place to get replacement fridge gaskets is
an appliance or appliance parts store. Take in a section of gasket and
find one close. They have the kind that is captured by screw-on flanges,
the push-on kind, and the adhesive kind. It won't be a one piece molded
part, as it is sold by the foot, or in some cases will be the size of
a home refrigerator, but you cut the four lengths you need out of it.
Angle-cut the corners with a 45 deg notch, leaving the outside surface
intact. Seal the corner up with matching colored silicone sealant.
Q: I’m installing a gas refrigerator in place of a missing one.
Any concerns?
A: The biggest would be ventilation. Early Airstreams
didn’t provide adequate ventilation for the cooling tubes. When
it comes to refer venting, the key is "draft". The taller &
tighter your chimney, the better the draw of cool air over the coils of
the refer. The ideal is a screened intake in the floor (what Airstream
started using in the '60's), into a relatively tight compartment made
using the refer back, side cabinets & outer wall of the trailer, continuing
upward and exhausting out the top of the trailer.
The top roof vents used in the 1950's looked more like smokestacks, and
are still available at better home centers, hardware stores, and plumbing/heating
supply houses. They have both the 4" round capped ones, usually used
on the heater vents, and the long oval one, usually used on the refer's.
Both have storm collars, made of aluminum and look much like the ones
from the '50s, only now made in Mexico.
